Walk into the Clouds
I was up a little early this morning and cautiously put my feet on the floor. After a strenuous day, there is always that moment of assessment to see if anything hurts when you get out of bed. To my delight, there was no pain, and I was in the correct location.
Apparently much of my muscle fatigue at the completion of the first day was tied to dehydration. I simply did not drink as much water as I should have. It was a rookie mistake, but there was one small mitigating factor. While my Camelbak was drained of all 2.5 liters, it wasn't all in me. It turns out there’s a leak at the connecting point between the water bag and the hose. I think it is just a little worn out. There's no replacement available out here, but it's a simple fix. Now after I drink, I blow into the tube until it's clear of all liquid. No leaks, no problems.
I was ready on time and in the lobby for my pickup at 8:00 a.m. The taxi was scheduled to return me to the point where I completed yesterday. The cab was about 30 minutes late arriving, by no fault of the driver whatsoever. The gates of the railroad crossing had malfunctioned again and it required the same detour we took the day before. Everyone seemed to take it in stride as if it was a normal occurrence. So, I didn't really get started back on the trail until about 8:45 a.m.
Almost immediately after beginning the walk, a large lake presented itself. With high hills in the background and the sun just at the right angle, it was an incredible way to start the day. I was prepared for an easy walk along a path that circled the lake.
It turns out the path was a small challenge, with lots of uneven stones and some small brooks to cross. There were several points where I, along with other hikers, had to pause and figure out which was the best way to get around obstacles. Perhaps the most challenging part was a portion where there was no path visible and we all had to scamper up some rock face for about six or seven feet.
Once around the lake, the path flattened out and became a very easy walk. It was at this point I ran into a fellow hiker named Diane, from Australia. She is a magistrate and we enjoyed the walk while discussing some of the challenges common to people in both Australia and the United States. Of particular interest was the struggle to find funding to support diversion programs to keep people out of prison.
Coincidentally, it wasn't long before we reached the YHA (the charitable Youth Hostels Association). It was one of a series of hostels in the park areas that are designed to encourage challenged youth to adopt a positive attitude, taking them out of their normal environment. It was time for a quick refreshment break and an opportunity to use a restroom. This is one of those situations where even if you don't believe you need it, you can take the opportunity to make sure.
The next stop was Black Sail. There were probably 20 people gathered at this hostel. There were restrooms once again and some honor-system drinks and snacks. Among the visitors were day hikers, bicyclists, and Coast to Coast walkers like myself. A good deal of the break time involved a discussion among many of us as to which path to take leaving the hostel – there were only two choices. Maps, guide books, GPS plots, and best guessing all contributed to the decision to take the less obvious route. It was the correct decision.
Now the terrain rose quickly and the biggest challenge of the day was before us. As Diane and I were beginning to enter the area with the most rapid rise, a gentleman passed in the other direction. I don't know if he was a frequent hiker or some type of guide. As he passed, he urged us to show caution because there were sections of the trail that had actually collapsed.
As we began to climb, the footing was sufficient and in places stones have been put in place to mimic a stairway. Even with the luxury of that accommodation I had to pause and catch my breath. Diane continued on her way. Each of us does the hike at our own pace.
Part of the fun of doing a long distance hike like this is meeting people and then not knowing if you will ever see them again. Sometimes you will bump into them on a daily basis and other times it's a one-time encounter and they are gone.
As I continued my climb and looked toward the summit, I couldn't help envying all the people who had already reached points ahead. That was tempered by looking below me and seeing the people who still needed to get to where I was.
It was a beautiful scene to look down into the valley and see the mist moving in. The temperature dropped perceptibly as the first moisture reached me. I made a short video, with the false assumption that I was much closer to the top. It's not uncommon for things like this to happen on the trail. You think you're reaching the top only to discover that there’s more to go. I was informed of just how far from the hill I was by a couple of gentlemen who were running down with two dogs. That is not a typo – they were running. I saw several people running on these hills, up and down. It was both very impressive and very scary.
As the muscles in my quads and calves began to get fatigued, I had to be even more certain of my footing. The ability to correct for being off balance or taking a misstep was very limited. I truly did not understand how people do the hikes without trekking poles.
I caught up with the young Finnish girl I had met at the summit of the Dent the day before, named Amelia. She was carrying a full pack and was struggling to get up the hill. She was also suffering from several blisters on her feet from her travels. An interesting young lady, she was on a break after submitting her master's thesis in electrical engineering. I learned a little about inductive motors as we walked together.
As the mist moved in, visibility went down to just a few hundred feet. It was amazing to learn how old technology serves so much better than all the electrical stuff and maps we carried. There were a series of cairns set up on the trail. As you approached one, the next became barely visible through the shroud of fog. Each was a reassuring nod that you are not off course. It became very clear how someone could easily get lost.
We did not loiter at the summit. Breaks in the mist provided some good views, and then as quickly as the fog had arrived, it was gone. I'm sure it was tied to simple meteorological factors. We were on the back side of the incline and the temperature had begun to rise again. The moist air was no longer at its temperature of saturation.
The angle was steep so the challenge was not complete. I offered the Finnish girl my best advice on how to use trekking poles to stabilize herself going downhill. It kept her much more stable and took pressure off the points of her feet with blisters.
Soon the Honister Slate Mine was in view below us. It has been an operational slate mine for centuries and is still active today. It is also a tourist attraction. Cars with locals and buses with foreign nationals arrived to enjoy the tours.
This is where Amelia and I split up. She was taking a well-deserved break and sitting down to a coffee and pastry. I took the opportunity to sit out in the sun and take my shoes off. It’s there I met two young men who are taking a weekend holiday to go hiking together. Marcus and Ben were enjoying the rare sunshine. We immediately engaged in affable conversation. They were trying to figure out where to hike based on the weather.
From the mines it was a fairly simple walk down some muddy hills, then on a trail, and then some roadway to reach my hotel. To my delight, my luggage was in the lobby waiting for me. I dragged my bag up to my room and went back down to the pub for my end-of-day treat. I grabbed a pint of Guinness and was on my way back to my room when I heard my name called from some picnic tables. It was Diane.
We chatted for just a few minutes and then Marcus and Ben arrived. They were now trying to figure out a place to camp for the night. We relaxed for a moment and then I excused myself because I definitely wanted to get into a hot shower.
Today was a great example of why I enjoy these hikes so much. The physical challenges combined with the scenery make any day a great day. Today was even better.