Cruz de Ferro
The best way to describe today is grueling. We started before the sun came up and finished when it was high in the sky. Temperature was at 40 degrees when we began to climb in the dark. It went up to 80 degrees as we finished the last few miles into town.
We woke at 4 a.m. to join the others at 5 a.m. The plan was to cover the five miles to the Iron Cross before the sun came up. Many in the group carried stones of significance, tying them to loved ones they had lost. I carried a stone for a prominent member of our community back home, who did great things for the 25 years I knew him.
The stars were bright but the path was treacherous. Without headlamps It would have been much too treacherous.
Occasionally we would stop and turn off the lights just to admire the night sky. There was no moon, so the stars were incredibly bright. The last two to arrive at the Iron Cross were the doctors from Copenhagen. They made it just in time to see the sun peek up over the mountains in the distance. The rest of us were probably there too long – cold had set in, and it was important to get started and warm up again.
Of all the segments we’ve traveled so far, and all the miles we’ve covered, today was the most physically challenging. Not only did the day include very steep climbs and very steep descents, much of the terrain was loose rocks and unsure footing. The trekking poles kept both Spence and me from tripping over rocks that caught our toes along the way. Our maximum altitude was 5,000 feet.
Once out of the hills, we entered a small town where Angela and her daughter peeled off from our group. The rest of their family was meeting there to do some traveling on the Camino together. Before splitting up, many in the group decided to wade through a cold stream in search of a colder beer on the other side.
I pressed on alone. I was more eager to get a hot shower and slip into some cool sheets. At this point, that goal was a more than an hour away.
That last hour offered little scenery and a lot of walking alongside roads. Then it broke off through another sparsely populated village and through some fields, entering the city over the river. The actual name of the city Ponferrada, translated, means “iron bridge.” Of course, we crossed a stone bridge to enter town.
Our hotel is located just a block away from the castle where crusaders used to spend time on their way to war. Spence caught sight of a wedding ceremony at the adjoining cathedral.
Later, we had tapas directly across from the castle and got to see a group of runners finishing a race.
I'm not sure exactly what the distance of the race was, but we did see the lead runner got to the finish line in about 2 hours and 10 minutes.
Reviewing the level of exertion for the day, we both registered well over 40,000 steps and more than 4,000 calories burned. Without question, we decided that we had earned TWO lemon beers.
It was a light dinner and now we're back in the room getting prepped for another 13 miles tomorrow. It's a very odd perspective when you think about walking 13 miles and view it as an easy day. We expect less extreme terrain tomorrow and only one real opportunity for a break.
At this point, we have about 130 miles left before finishing in Santiago. It will be exciting to get that number down into double digits.
Normal wake up time tomorrow: 7 a.m., with bags in the lobby by 8 a.m., and out the door well before 9:00. The only mystery is what aches and pains the two of us will experience when we roll out in the morning.