The Other Halfway Point
When I sat down to breakfast this morning (toast and coffee, juice and eggs), I believed I was halfway to Santiago de Compostela. The mileage bears that idea out. However, it wasn't until arriving at our destination in Sahagun today that the tourist office issued the two of us official certificates showing completion of 50 percent of the trip.
At this point, a few miles either side of the midpoint is not critical, but we are clearly into the countdown of days remaining.
About half of the trail was alongside roads today. The surface varied from dirt to a pebbled path, which was tougher on the feet. From the bicyclists that passed, we understood it was even rougher on them.
I passed a maintenance crew that was tending to the trail. Similar work is obvious along many segments of the Camino.
As we travel across the country, there seems to be an absence of traffic in most places. Our hotel tonight is very close to a train station, and over the last six hours I have not heard a single train pass. We arrived during siesta time, and there was that weird feeling of entering an episode of The Twilight Zone, because the streets were empty and the city practically lifeless.
Along the way today I met another Mark. I might have lost track, but I believe this is Mark Number Five. This gentleman is from Sweden, so of course we discussed IKEA. He works in medical device manufacturing, and his company has come up with great ways to treat burns. Very impressive.
Two years ago, this man Mark told his manager he wanted five weeks off to walk the Camino.
Every month, he said, he would remind his manager that in 2022 he was going to be walking the Camino. So, it surprised him three weeks ago when his manager asked him when he planned to go to walk the Camino. Luckily, it all worked out.
Our hotel is situated directly across the street from the local bullfighting ring. Fortunately there is no event this evening. Spence and I agree that seeing it once on TV satisfied our curiosity. I noticed on the hand bill that it costs 35 euros admission for adults, and children under six get in free. The first fight is on Friday, June 10.
Dinner was at the hotel tonight. There's not much in the downtown area to see. After walking for over four hours today, we are grateful for a hot shower and a clean place to stay.
We are reminded daily of how different other people's experiences are on the Camino. In these small towns, some of the hostel bunk areas house eight to 20 people. It is reported to be a symphony of snoring. Spence and I only have to listen to each other.