Nearly Halfway
Since I stepped away from the Camino Trail yesterday afternoon to get to my hotel, my first task was finding my way back onto it this morning. The way the roads were laid out in town, it would have taken me back about a half mile to pick up the trail where I previously veered away.
I used the Buen Camino app to navigate the city streets to get me to the trail further down the line. It took about two and a half miles to finally pick up. That was about 25 percent of the total distance I was to travel for the day. The interesting part was that there were more sidewalks on those streets than there were on much of the Camino itself. I took a photo of some of the fresh brickwork I walked upon. Yes, these are bricks and they are yellow. I will try to refrain from making any Wizard of Oz comparisons.
It is always a reassuring thing to see that first yellow arrow come into view to let you know you're back on the right path. There was one portion that was probably two miles long and all on trail. Nothing was really remarkable about most of the day as I traveled through some residential and industrial areas.
Of the 400 miles on this route of the Portuguese Camino, I have traveled a little more than 130 so far. That became more evident as the sound of my trekking poles started to make a metallic clank, as the rubber pads wore through. I lean heavily on my trekking poles and managed to go through four sets of pads on the Camino de Frances back in April and May. I always carry extra pads in my pack. It became much quieter once I stopped and replaced the spent equipment.
I was not fast enough with my camera to get my own picture of the animal I saw today on the trail. but this is it. It ran across the path about 50 feet in front of me — a Common Ganet.
After a little over three miles walking, there was really nowhere to stop until getting within 30 minutes of my final destination for the day. Locked-down and deserted cafes were common along the trail.
There was a spot with tables and benches that overlooked the valley about 90 minutes out, and I stopped there for my break. The scenery improved as I crossed a bridge over the main highway that led into Coimbra. A Roman aqueduct straddled the highway and pilgrims would pass under one of the arches during the descent toward the river.
The city was bustling, with lots of traffic and people of all ages on the streets and sidewalks. Coimbra is the location of a major university, and the city has a college feel. Lots of cheap eateries are in the major social areas, and higher-end dining is away from where the young people might hang out.
My hotel was located past the university and, of course, up one of the steepest hills. Google maps led me up the cobbled streets and then directed me to take a stairway. This might have been the most physically demanding part of the day. The stairs were of an irregular height and probably rose six stories.
Once up the stairs I did pass the university, and then off to my right were the botanical gardens. I entered and walked through the park instead of taking the street to get to my hotel, which abutted the garden at the far end.
Today was a solid nap day after doing my wash and hitting the shower. It's strange what lingers in your mind, but then reappears in a dream. In a dream this afternoon I saw myself at a restaurant where the waiter cleared any leftover wine from the tables and put it into a bucket, only to serve it again later. In reality, yesterday as I grabbed dinner I saw the waiter take a half-used bottle of water off the table and pour it into a pitcher he was using to serve other customers. I guess it stuck with me.
I'm keeping my eyes open in the restaurant where I'm presently seated. The last couple of nights have not offered anything impressive for dinner, and the total cost for those nights of eating was probably under $12. I'm splurging a little bit tonight and enjoying a local glass of wine, then having a ceviche appetizer with a chicken main course. They seem pretty civilized over here until they serve fries with mayonnaise. Even with a wine and a bottle of water, the bill will come in at only about $20 for the night.
Tomorrow is another fairly short day. I don't mind that at all. It gives me more time to explore the city.