Hiking to Tyndrum
The weather report was finally right on target: 100 percent chance of rain during the day. Actually, it only rained about 80 percent of the time. There were some short periods where the sun peeked out, and you could feel the moisture on the ground evaporate and thicken the air.
Shortly after starting out, I was overtaken by about a dozen people in khakis and camouflage. Word had traveled up and down the trail about 20 Air Force Reserve members from Oklahoma who were making the hike, and this was that group. Depending on who took breaks where, we passed each other numerous times during the course of the day. The ranking officer was a Lieutenant Colonel named Matt. He explained they were on TDY (temporary duty) and made the West Highland Way part of this deployment.
In conversations with some of the members, it turns out we shared at least one thing in common. Their training on flat ground in Oklahoma mirrored my training regimen in Florida. There was really no way to be prepared for the hills we would encounter.
I finally got to use my rain gear and it served me well. A number of zippered vents on the jacket and pants gave me the chance to allow air flow through the plastic layers, without exposing myself to the rain. By the end of the day I was still soaked. It's hard to know if that was from rain that penetrated the barriers, or perspiration that couldn't escape. The end result was the same.
On the topic of equipment, there were some obvious fails along the trail. Yesterday, there was a couple who were both having issues with their hiking boots. The sole was almost completely detached from his left boot, and she remarked that hers were coming apart as well. They were of quality manufacture by a company called Keen. Examining the issue with others, the only thing we came up with is that they possibly tried to dry them at too high a heat and compromised the adhesive keeping the sole secure to the uppers. He had wrapped the failing shoe with electrical tape and was in search of duct tape until he could find a more permanent solution. I did not see him today. I hope the couple worked out this issue.
Other hikers, without the right rain gear, scramble to cover their packs with plastic bags. I've known hikers who would wrap their feet in plastic bags if they didn't have waterproof shoes.
There weren't as many opportunities to take pictures today because of the risk of getting my phone saturated, and the limited visibility to really feature anything.
Another thing that seems to be lacking along this trail is wildlife. Yesterday, with the exception of seeing some ducks in the lake and hearing some crows in the trees, there was nothing. Today I saw a few toads, and one bird that seemed to claim the picnic table as its own. I'm guessing people who’ve stopped to eat there have been tossing out crumbs.
The terrain rose and fell as expected. No ferns at all today, but lots of pine forest and some farmland. In the stretches of pine, there was a large logging operation underway. The cleared fields sprouted green columns of replanted trees. Like so many countries in Europe, they are very serious about reforestation.
As the rain continued, the flow of water down the trail became more pronounced. There were usually a couple of stones tossed into the puddles to make the crossing easier. Unfortunately, there were a few too many puddles and sections of mud that soaked through my shoes. Fortunately, the combination of shoes and socks I used prevented any blisters, and upon arrival I discovered that my toes weren't even pruney.
On the outskirts of Tyndrum was a column surrounded by several stacks of stones. At dinner, I asked the waitress if she knew what it was. The column itself was erected on the site of what used to be a lead smelting operation. The stacks of stones are more of a nuisance than a historical relic. People have been stacking stones all over Scotland and it is doing damage. The waitress, like the Park service, would encourage tourists not to do that. From time to time they actually clear all the stones away. (The Park service, not the waitress.)
Under the heading of pleasant surprises, I arrived earlier than the allowable check-in time and my room was ready. Not only that, my luggage was waiting for me ahead of schedule. It got even better when I got to my room. Tonight, I have a bathtub and a hair dryer!
I filled the tub and soaked for a bit. Then it was time to rinse off under the shower. This is where things got complicated. Only a trickle of water came out of the shower head, and it was cold no matter how I manipulated the taps. I stood in the shower, twisting dials for about five minutes trying to find the right spot to get some hot water. I gave up and wound up improvising with a plastic cup of warm water from the bath tap. It was inconvenient and amusing at the same time. On balance, I'm still happy to have had the bathtub.
Tomorrow is a short day, only about nine miles. As much as I'm eager to get further down the trail, I will be grateful for an opportunity for my legs to get a little rest.
