Moderate Physical Challenge
I enjoyed a solid night's sleep and a pretty solid breakfast at the restaurant around the corner from my accommodations. They didn't open until 8:00 a.m. and I was at the door waiting when they turned the key in the lock. According to my literature I was looking at a 7-hour day. I wanted to get started as soon as possible, especially because the skies were clear and the temperature was going to rise into the mid 70s. That temperature is a little unusual for Scotland this time of year. But, I guess there's a new normal everywhere.
The road immediately in front of my hotel led to an intersection about a mile and a half away. That negated the need to double back on ground I covered the day before. On the way out of town I passed a decorated mailbox. Some serious knitting had happened in the village. It was a bit of whimsy that made me smile early in the morning.
The next thing that brought a grin to my face was running into the Australian couple, Danny and Allison. I apologized for not remembering her name before, and we walked together for about 20 minutes. They are a pretty impressive couple. He's on the back side of a heart attack and a quadruple bypass. And his wife has lost close to 80 pounds in the last 18 months.
My pace was a little quicker than theirs so I left them once we rejoined the designated trail. There was a very gentle rise to the terrain as I exited the pine forest. Birds filled the air with their songs and it was a good time for some reflection before the exertion ahead.
The trail continued to rise gently, and then began a descent toward a stream. Near any water or densely wooded areas there were lots of flying bugs. I'm not certain they are the famous Scotland midges. They appeared to mostly have been flying ants and a few horse flies. The ants didn't bite and I didn't give the horse flies the opportunity. I reached into my backpack and sprayed any exposed skin with repellent.
Once I crossed the stream it was all uphill. There were 1,000 feet to climb to reach the top of Conic Hill. The higher I ascended the more dense the fog became. It was fun to watch grazing sheep appear out of the mist looking very menacing. Another hiker actually paused to let me go first. He was concerned that the sheep might attack. That amused me. Of course the sheep made way as I got within 10 feet of them. There was no drama, just a lot of sheep poop.
At the highest point the view itself was very limited. Shortly after starting down the back side of the hill, Loch Lomond appeared before me. More and more of it appeared out of the mist, as if a curtain was being opened. The loch is 26 miles in length, very dramatic and very beautiful.
It was much more crowded heading down toward the loch. Individuals and families were day hiking from a park at the base of the hill near the water. It amazed me how some of the people treated it very casually. They were not dressed in hiking gear and very few even carried bottles of water. Maybe they began the climb on a whim? Or maybe they do it so often that for them it is no big deal.
About a third of the way down, a small rise offered a terrific view. I learned a very important lesson there. I need to check the pictures taken by strangers before I leave the location I want captured. The best picture a woman took of me also included her finger. I cropped it out as best I could. I am not going back up the hill for another photo op.
The steep angle continued almost all the way to the car park at the base of the hill. It was a welcome relief to finally hit flat land and a public restroom at the same time.
At this point I was about halfway to my destination for the day. I took a brief refreshment break and then got back on the trail. For the most part, it paralleled the eastern shore of the loch and worked its way north. There were several points where the trail went up a hill only to come down on the other side next to the same road. Each time I returned to the paved surface, it made me wonder if I should have taken the easier route. Ultimately, I committed to staying true to the trail.
There were several great views of Loch Lomond as I continued. At one point the trail actually took me onto the beach, and I passed among people enjoying their day by the water. Several campsites occupied prime locations to enjoy the view.
With five miles still ahead of me, I could feel my legs becoming weary. Every time I crested a hill I truly hoped it would be the last one I had to climb. That’s why I generally don't look at all the elevation diagrams before I begin each day. I would rather be surprised than be anticipating the challenges I might encounter.
About two miles from Rowardennan I ran into Michael and his dog Noodle. I was happy to take a quick break because we met on a steep hill. When I introduced myself he replied with his name. I told him that I had a brother who shared his name, and he responded that he had a brother named Mark. It was a fun coincidence, and we shared conversation for a few minutes before we each went in our own direction. He offered a small bit of encouragement that I was nearing my destination.
Happily, my hotel for the night was among the first buildings in the village. By the time I got to the reception desk I was very happy to be done. When I entered my room I checked for two things immediately. I looked to see if there is a bathtub that might afford me a nice hot soak. There wasn't one. But, there was a hair dryer. That meant it was laundry night. From experience I know that wet clothes never have time to dry overnight without use of a hair dryer or heated towel rack. Laundry first, shower next, and then a quick nap before dinner.
The guide I reference listed today as being a moderate physical challenge. The 15 miles tomorrow is listed as moderate/strenuous. I can hardly wait. Plus, there's an 80 percent chance of rain all day. The adventure continues.
